I come from a family of farmers, and the love for the land was ingrained in me from a young age. The familiar rhythms of the farming cycle remain vivid in my memory: preparing the land, sowing the seeds, nurturing the plants, and finally reaping the harvest. Our lives revolved around these tasks, and there was a particular moment when the maize was tender and ready for quality control – that's when we knew it was time for "tamales de elote" (elote being young corn).
After harvesting, the corn would be left to ripen and dry on the land. My dad would work tirelessly from dawn till dusk, ensuring the success of the harvest. Most of our produce found its way to the "bodegas," warehouses, and eventually made its way to companies in Mexico City like Minsa or Maseca, renowned for their production of "masa lista," the corn flour used to make tortillas.
In every town and city, you'll find "molinos," mills where fresh tortillas are made every day from sunrise until after the midday meal. When I was young, each mill processed their own corn, employing a traditional method called nixtamalization. The kernels would be soaked in a mixture of water and lime, softening the outer membrane and making it easier to grind. After rinsing, soaking in clean water, and cooking, the corn would be milled. This meticulous process, aside from enhancing the flavor, also unlocked the nutritional benefits of corn, such as calcium and niacin (vitamin B3). The earthy taste of authentic masa became etched in my taste buds and soul.
Over time, with modernization, most mills shifted to using the dry corn flour produced by Maseca and Minsa. Undeniably, this streamlined process was easier, more convenient, and less time-consuming. However, in my opinion, it came at the cost of sacrificing that genuine taste and authenticity. As one of my chores, I was responsible for sourcing the tortillas for our main midday meal. My mum always sent me to the mill she trusted, the one that produced the best tortillas near our home.
The Molino buzzed with activity from the early hours of the morning, and people would queue up even before 7 am to get their breakfast tortillas. The same scene would repeat around noon, as folks sought soft, hot tortillas for "la comida." I would bring along a tea towel to wrap the tortillas, and sometimes I would also need to get "masa," the dough, from the mill. I would request one kilo of tortillas and one of masa. The always-smiling mill clerk would weigh the tortillas and wrap them in the tea towel. But I must confess, I couldn't resist stealing a tortilla from the top, adding a pinch of salt from the container next to the scales, and savoring a simple taco to satisfy my hunger on the way back home. This must have been a popular practice, considering why else would they keep the salt so conveniently close to the scales?
Mum always liked to have fresh masa in the fridge, ready to whip up tortillas for any meal. But being chosen to enjoy a handmade tortilla was a privilege reserved for special guests or those lucky enough to be in her good graces. I, being the mischievous one, often found myself in trouble. However, I discovered that if I timed my mealtime with my father's, I would be rewarded with a fresh tortilla. Imagine the delight of sinking your teeth into a soft, hot tortilla fresh off the griddle, puffed up like a pita bread. I would carefully slice it open, spread some butter, let it
melt and add some salt, then take a big bite... Delicious! It's akin to enjoying freshly baked bread with butter, evoking the same comforting sentiment.
Masa is like a magical ingredient that unlocks a world of possibilities. Not only can you make tortillas, but also gorditas, tamales, flautas, tostadas, tlacoyos, sopes, coricos, corundas, champurrado, huaraches, tlayudas, torrejas... Countless variations found throughout Mexico. Stand-up comedian Sofia Niño de Rivera captures it perfectly, describing how the same ingredients transform into a multitude of dishes, with corn as the shining star.
Before moving to Australia, I took to Google to ensure I could recreate my favorite Mexican dishes whenever the pangs of homesickness hit hard. To my delight, I discovered a couple of online stores and, even more surprising, a Molino in Mortdale that produces corn tortillas and masa using the traditional nixtamalization process. In case of emergencies, I can still find corn tortillas in supermarkets, but nothing beats the freshness of the ones made at the Molino.
One day, I decided to embark on the adventure of making my own tortillas. I stumbled upon Maseca corn flour in a local greengrocer, and with excitement, I began my culinary experiment. However, I must admit that my initial attempts were disappointing - my tortillas turned out dry and crumbly. Yet, my pride wouldn't allow me to confess the truth to my husband, so I persevered. And guess what? Now, every time I see my tortillas puff up on the griddle, I break into a happy dance. Practice truly makes perfect! The secret, I discovered, is allowing the dough to rest for at least half an hour. This crucial step allows the mixture to rehydrate, resulting in a soft and pliable dough that serves as the foundation for countless delectable creations. I dare you to try making your own tortillas - it's a rewarding and satisfying experience.
So, are you ready to embark on a tortilla-making adventure with me? Imagine stepping into Casa Chivaloca, where the aroma of freshly cooked tortillas fills the air, and the joy of creating these culinary delights brings a smile to your face.
Join me in the kitchen as we mix the simple ingredients and knead the dough with love. Feel the anticipation build as we let it rest, allowing the flavors to meld and the texture to become oh-so-perfect. As the dough transforms into soft, pliable rounds, we'll shape them delicately, ready to be cooked to golden perfection on a hot griddle.
Together, we'll witness the magic of the tortillas puffing up and forming those irresistible pockets. And when it's time to indulge, we'll gather around the table, sharing stories and laughter, savouring the taste of our homemade tortillas, still warm from the griddle.
So, grab your apron, bring your appetite, and join me for a cooking session at Casa Chivaloca. Let's create memories and delicious moments that will linger on your taste buds and warm your heart. Get ready for a culinary experience like no other. See you soon!