When I think of the most Mexican food staples four things come to mind: beans, tortillas, salsa and cheese. Humble ingredients but my mother could whip up a meal in no time even if that’s all that was left in the fridge.
Let’s talk about the beans. Growing up I thought all beans were the same everywhere and you could choose from only two: Azufrado and Mayocoba. Azufrado, also known as Peruvian or Canary, has a smaller size and was my favourite over the larger Mayocoba. Both are grown in the fertile lands of El Fuerte valley, in northern Sinaloa. I remember going to the market and getting them by the sack! Every week my mum would cook a 2 kg batch of beans and that would last a few days.
First we had to clean them, pouring them on a clean table and picking out small stones, sticks and other debris that made it through the sieve. Then soak them in cold water for a few hours. Cook them with onion, garlic and bay leaves but always remember to add salt after they are cooked, otherwise they will remain hard. They became the main meal, fresh from the pot with their clear broth, add some chopped Spanish onion, chili slices or a good pico de gallo salsa, handmade flour tortillas and a slice of fresh cheese and that’s heaven. My favorite were frijoles guisados, when you take the beans from the pot and sauté them in a little bit of pork lard (best flavour) or vegetable oil (better for your waistline they say). The broth gets cloudy and thickens a bit when beans get lightly mashed. After this step, once they were cooled, mum put them into containers and froze them until needed.
Frijoles guisados become frijoles refritos, refried beans, when you heat them up with a bit of oil for everyday use. Some people like them soupy, some like them a bit dry, but no matter what you will find beans as a side dish at any Mexican meal: Breakfast, lunch and dinner.
They are a great source of fiber, protein, folate and antioxidants. Beans and corn can be found in every Mexican home, from the humblest abode to the biggest mansion. We were raised on corn tortillas and beans and have everyday and party beans. My mum is famous in the family for her frijoles puercos, porky beans. Beans dressed up with Mexican chorizo, hot sauce and lots of cheese. Spicy goodness to serve as a side dish in any celebration or as a starter with corn chips.
When I came to Australia was happy to see beans in all the markets, black, pinto, kidney, faba are easy to find among many other varieties. Alas, my beloved azufrado or peruano beans are nowhere to be seen. My sister sent me some by post but didn’t make it across the border patrol. One day I found Great Northern Beans, paler in color but similar in size and decided to give it a go. They became my favourites. The color, texture and flavour very similar to the ones from my childhood. Let’s cook some beans.
Frijoles de la olla
Ingredients:
2 cups of beans of your choice
2/3 cloves of garlic
¼ Spanish onion
2 bay leaves
6 cups of water
Salt
Rinse the beans in cold water and let them soak overnight if possible. Put beans in pressure cooker, cover with water and add the rest of the ingredients but no salt. Cook for 50 minutes at high pressure. If you don’t want to use a pressure cooker follow same instructions using a pot on the stove. Check them at 45 minutes. Beans that are soaked will cook faster and have better texture. Add salt to taste once they are cooked to your desired consistency.
I like to overcook them a little so they are tender and easy to mash. Enjoy beans from the pot with some of the broth and add salsa pico de gallo and cheese to taste.
Refried beans
If beans from the pot is not your thing, make them into refried beans.
Ingredients:
2 cups cooked beans
1 tablespoon of pork lard or vegetable oil
Heat the lard/oil in a frying pan, once it’s hot add the beans and some of the broth, mash with a potato masher until soft. If you like a smoother texture use a stick blender. You can use refried beans as a side dish for scrambled eggs, quesadillas, etc., as a snack with corn chips, as a spread for sandwiches or wraps. Possibilities are endless. Top them with crumbled feta cheese for an extra layer of flavour.